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By Gail Johnson After more than 25 years in business, Vij’s has become a Vancouver icon, one of those standout restaurants that forever changed the city’s culinary landscape. Early on, co-owners Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala (who were formerly married and have two grown daughters) established what roles suited them best: Vij, with his ability to connect with customers, would handle front of house operations. Dhalwala, who has a knack for coming up with new, inventive Indian dishes despite no formal culinary training, would handle the cooking. It’s been a recipe for success ever since. When the restaurant first opened in 1994 as a 14-seat space, Amarjeet Gill, whom Vij had met through a mutual acquaintance, was his part-time dishwasher. She had come to Canada in her 20s in a happy arranged marriage and spoke no English. Within weeks, Gill was right by Dhalwala’s side, chopping, slicing, and stirring. She…